In 1947, sailor and cook Liu Wan Chong found himself stranded on the shores of Gothenburg. But instead of bemoaning his cruel fate, Liu displayed remarkable resourcefulness and journeyed to the Chinese embassy in Stockholm where he lent his culinary talents and made a home for himself.

Twelve years later, Liu returned triumphantly to Gothenburg and founded Sweden’s first Chinese restaurant: Kinesiska Muren (The Chinese Wall/The Great Wall). His vision was to offer cheap, plentiful, and delicious food, and the iconic combo “Three Small Dishes” (“Tre små rätter”), initially consisting of fried shrimp, beef with bamboo, and chicken with nuts, has its origins here. By 1991, Kinesiska Muren employed 25 people. After 57 years of operation, the restaurant closed its doors on June 30, 2016.

Following the establishment of Liu’s restaurant (and vision), a wave of Chinese restaurants with similar menus emerged, leaving an indelible imprint on the Swedish culinary landscape. Eventually, however, Gothenburg’s Chinese culinary scene began to transform. Evolving from Liu’s “Tre små rätter” concept, it started encompassing more traditional or ”authentic” Chinese dishes, giving rise to various fusion experiments.

Obviously, as Zenseactians, we embrace diversity and innovation in cuisine. And we certainly don’t intend to criticize the notion (however pretentious) of merging the rugged North Sea flavors with the vibrant, crisp creations of Asia. But we do know one thing.

Silverdraken ain’t it.

And for that, we’re thankful. Because in this context, at least to us, “authentic” signifies “Chinese food like it was served in Sweden when it was first introduced and we were kids.” It harks back to the dishes offered at Kinesisk muren, where my parents would occasionally take me. Dining at Silverdraken (“The Silver Dragon”) and outlets like it always becomes a nostalgic journey, transporting me back to those cherished childhood memories.

Many mid-sized communities in Sweden have at least a couple of these restaurants. Often, much like Kinesiska muren, they have become institutions; it’s not uncommon for these venues to endure for decades, retaining their name, staff, ownership, and even menu – many acting as a second home to those who struggle a little bit extra with the cold and the solitude.

By our definition, then, The Dragon is nothing if not authentic. They have it all: the rice, the monosodium glutamate, the sweet and sour sauces, the fried shrimp, the beef, the broccoli, and the bamboo shoots. As a bonus, they also offer the delicious deep-fried chicken wings we’ve all come to rely on in Thai buffets.

But wasn’t there also a hint of something else? It might have been the use of garlic, coriander, or something. Maybe (aside from the chicken) the relatively moderate use of MSG? Whatever it was, the result was a somewhat more nuanced flavor chart than you might expect. But we’ll let that slide 🙂

No food lover in the multiverse wouldn’t give Silverdraken top ratings. It’s doing exactly what Kinesiska Muren was doing all those years: offering cheap, plentiful, and delicious food. What more can you ask?

• Name and address: Silverdraken, Herkulesgatan 24
• Cuisine: Chinese buffet
• Walking distance from Zenseact: 15 mins
• Price: 99 sek (drink included)
• Rating: 5/5 NCAP stars (Norra Älvstranden Culinary Assessment Program)

However, as all good things must come to an end, we fear that restaurants like Silverdraken are a dying breed. So get out there and enjoy the warm and friendly food while you still can.

We’ll return shortly with another review. In the meantime, heed the great Robert Frost’s advice and choose the road less traveled – a wise gastronomic approach and an outstanding professional mantra for every Zenseactian.